AFRICA BECOMES FASHIONABLE

By the early 1900's, Kenya was acclaimed as the winter home of the aristocracy. Originally known simply as Mile 326, Nairobi soon became the safari capital.

The most popular departure point for safaris was the Norfolk Hotel, frequented by visiting European nobility, big-game hunters and the rough-and-tumble local settlers. The Norfolk boasted hot baths, spring beds, a well-stocked bar and a French chef.

The Norfolk revellers were a motley collection of hunters and farming pioneers, striving to make a living in a new land of opportunity. Clifford and Harold Hill were ostrich farmers whose birds were plagued by lions. They decided to invite hunters in to shoot the lions, charging a fee for this. Visiting hunters turned up in droves: the safari business had begun.

Nairobi's first safari outfitting company was called Newland and Tarlton and they had the most distinguished professional White Hunters on their books; men like Leslie Tarlton, Bror von Blixen and Billy Judd.

In 1909, ex-President Teddy Roosevelt set out from the Norfolk Hotel on a hunting safari that broke all records for size and splendour. There were 500 uniformed porters and a half-dozen White Hunters participating in this epic, the first safari ever captured on film. Roosevelt helped to popularize safaris with the publication of his book 'African Game Trails'.

It was a romantic age. Fritz Schindelar rode down lions on horse-back in a spotless white suit of riding clothes, gambling extravagantly and wooing the ladies with his flamboyant charm. The fearless Alan Black shot 14 man-eating lions and hung the tips of their tails from his slouch hat.

Philip Percival guided the Duke and Duchess of York and the famous American film-making couple Martin and Osa Johnson. Beryl Markham learned to fly and started an air-drop mail service for safari parties on the move. Denys Finch Hatton scouted for game in his biplane and also escorted the Prince of Wales on safari.

THE ERA OF CHAMPAGNE SAFARIS

Grand safaris such as these generally required 30 porters per White Hunter, plus 40-50 porters per client. Tailors were provided to make the client's clothes and armchairs were taken along on safari, together with folding baths, cases of champagne, a small library of books and one or more cooks to provide eight-course dinners. After every item had been checked, the equipment was parcelled out to the porters in 60-pound loads, to be carriedon theirheads.

The appearance of the motor vehicle changed the picture considerably. Now, a client could engage a fleet of vehicles and travel virtually self-contained over long distances. Porters were needed only in terrain where the vehicles could not go.

Money was no object in the pre-Depression days of the 1920's and the affluent visitor (whether an English lord, American film star or Indian maharajah) would contract a safari outfitter to organize a custom-planned safari complete with White Hunter, menservants, gunbearers, porters, provisions, guns, cars, trucks and tentage.

Some of these safaris were incredible, with the tents alone covering an acre of ground. There were generators, electric lights and enough vehicles to fill a small parking lot, including zinc-lined trucks for the cold storage of food and drink.

A different vintage wine graced each course and the sumptuous cuisine was supplemented with imported delicacies from Fortnum and Mason of London. When two such safaris met, the chefs would often compete to see who could stage the most lavish banquet in the bush.

Safari Consultants of London, Ltd. 5051 Pelican Colony Blvd., # 603 Bonita Springs, FL 34134-6910, USA

Tel: (239) 390-1507 or (800) 648-6541 Fax: (239) 390-1721 E-Mail: andrew@safariconsultant.com